Maasai men walking across open savanna

People

The best afternoon of a trip, or the worst

Community visits vary enormously, and the difference is visible before you book if you know what to ask.

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Who the Samburu are

Semi-nomadic pastoralists who live across much of northern Kenya, closely related to the Maasai and speaking a related language. Livestock — cattle, goats, camels — is the centre of the economy and much of the culture.

They are not a museum exhibit and they are not a backdrop for your photographs. They are people who live where you are on holiday.

What separates a good visit from a bad one

GoodBad
A long-standing relationship between the camp and a specific communityA village that receives whichever coach turns up
An agreed fee that goes to the community, and you know what it isVague "donations", and pressure to buy
You are introduced to people, and can talk to themYou are walked past people who perform and stop
You ask before photographing, and no is acceptedCameras raised the moment you arrive
It lasts as long as the conversation lastsForty-five minutes on a fixed schedule

What to ask before you agree to one

"How long has the camp worked with this community, what is the fee, and who receives it?"

A camp with a genuine relationship answers immediately. A camp running a coach-party arrangement changes the subject.

Community conservancies

North of the reserves, a number of conservancies are owned and run by the communities whose land they are. There, the conservancy fee is not a donation — it is the community’s income from wildlife, and it is the reason the wildlife is protected rather than competing with livestock.

Staying in one is the most direct version of the thing a village visit gestures at: your money is the mechanism, and the people managing the land are your hosts.

Ordinary courtesy

  • Greet people before asking them anything
  • Ask before photographing, every time, and accept no
  • Do not haggle hard over craftwork — the margins are not what you think
  • Dress as you would to meet anyone’s family
  • If you are uncomfortable, it is fine to say so and leave

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