A hippo yawning among a pod in the water

Geography

Three reserves, one river

Separately managed, sharing the same wildlife — and it matters which ones your camp is allowed to drive.

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The three reserves compared
ReserveWhere it sitsCharacter
Samburu National ReserveNorth bank of the Ewaso Ng’iroThe classic. Doum palms, riverine forest, red rock, and most of the camps.
Buffalo SpringsSouth bank, directly opposite SamburuMore open country, clear springs, particularly good for Grevy’s zebra and oryx.
ShabaEast of the other twoLarger, wilder, volcanic. Far fewer visitors and a harder, more dramatic landscape.

Why it matters

They are managed separately and each charges its own fee. A camp on the north bank drives Samburu by default; crossing to Buffalo Springs means a bridge and a second entry fee.

Most camps can do both. Some include it, some charge it, and a few do not go. Ask before you book — the difference is the size of your driveable area.

  • Which reserves can we drive from this camp?
  • Are the fees for all of them included in the rate?
  • How long is the drive to the bridge?
  • Does the camp go to Shaba at all?

The river

The Ewaso Ng’iro is the reason any of this exists. It runs off the Aberdares and Mount Kenya, and in dry country it is the only permanent water for a long way.

Everything concentrates on it. Elephants cross it, crocodiles live in it, leopards hunt the forest along it, and the doum palms that define the landscape grow because of it. In a dry year it can reduce to pools; in a wet one it floods.

Camps sit along it for the obvious reason, and a riverside tent in Samburu is one of the better places to spend the middle of a hot day.

Further north

Beyond the three reserves lie community conservancies — large, remote and run by the communities who own the land. They are quieter still, the guiding is often the most interesting in northern Kenya, and the conservancy fee is community income.

They are a longer way and suit travellers with more time and some safari experience. Ask us if that sounds like you.

Ask which reserves our camp can drive

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